Rotoiti Loop

Having a family bach in St Arnaud is a real privilege. Being based so close to the mountains tempts you to dream ever bigger dreams. Consequently, despite having kayaked to the head of Lake Rotoiti many times to access a variety of adventures up the Travers valley I had never circumnavigated the lake from door to door. The closest I came was sometime in the memory fog of primary school when I walked from the track start on Robert Road through to Kerr Bay. Close? Sure, but not the full circumnavigation and barely remembered at that. It was time to rectify the situation and simultaneously undertake J's first overnight tramp.

We begin by heading past Rotoiti Lodge around 9am, quickly down into West Bay and start the trudge up the road. It is not so far but the day is making its intention to roast evident. Around a dozen cars pass by at a range of speeds before we reach the track and escape into the scrub. Back down at lake level the view is clear to the point of unreality. Just below Whisky Falls we have lunch and watch a man trying to cross the stream in jandals without getting his feet wet - all while holding a small child aloft. White knuckle drama. We reminisce about the time we came this way in 2022 on a very wet winter day and the crossing was over the knees.

Shortly thereafter a Weka struts about on the track fluffing out its feathers in attempt to intimidate. It does not entirely work though we do stop to watch the show. The heat is really coming down now and we shuffle on past Coldwater Hut. The noise of boats slowly recedes and we arrive at the junction for the river crossing. Scouting around proves that a spot about 20m from the sign itself is the best bet for a campsite. We put up the tent and head down to the river. All thoughts of swimming are dissuaded by the intense cold of Coldwater Stream. I had never bothered to put my hand in this tributary before but the temperature difference to the Travers is marked. It must emanate from a spring as there is certainly no worthwhile catchment. The evening passes in a perpetual sandfly driven motion with the company of a lovely robin.

We are up around 7am and moments later a French couple walk past on the track a few metres away laughing their heads off without acknowledging our presence. Somewhat nonplussed we pack up and cross the river without trouble - it being very low. This is an excellent viewpoint of Angelus Ridge and gazing at the crags fires the imagination. From here the landmarks tick by easily aside from a slightly rooty section before Barefoot Burn. There is a jumping rock that I had forgotten and another day of intense heat does make it tempting. Unfortunately, it does not look so easy to return to the track. Creeks both running and dry mark progress into Kerr Bay. Before we know it we are using the last of the chocolate to tempt us up the final small rise to the bach. Door to door.